knits, colors, comfort and a bohemian version of je ne sais quoi Paris – this is partly the legacy of Sonia Rykiel, French fashion creator who died this quinta- show after 86 years. “The Rykiel philosophy is that luxury is to dream but it is also important that it is not a frustration,” boiled down to PUBLIC daughter of designer , Nathalie Rykiel, his creative heir and responsible for its brand since disease limited the work of the “queen of knitwear”. It was not just Rive Gauche and Saint-Germain-des-Prés, but was there part of your emotional root and its chic .
We were in December 2009 in Paris, and Sonia Rykiel presented his special collection of collaboration with the fast fashion brand H & M. Nathalie Rykiel, who had come to be a model of Rykiel, received journalists in a richly decorated room and punctuated by colors, from black to pink stripes, pink-old, yellow or purple, which have become synonymous with “Sonia Rykiel” in the fashion dictionary . Represented the mother, the redhead of geometric cutting had enough hair that started working in 1962 when looking for as many designer do in their profession, solve a problem – not found soft mesh for use during pregnancy ( He had two children, Nathalie, in 1955, and Jean-Philippe).
Sonia Rykiel was the daughter of a Romanian watchmaker of Flis nickname. His mother was Russian and his birthplace the satellite city of Paris, Neuilly, in 1930. Its name comes from her husband, Sam clothing retailer, but Laura shop had nothing to Sonia, who thought fashion was something “for others” as the Guardian in 2013 like. There asked a supplier to adjust some sweaters that thought serve to her slender figure, and “the seventh [attempt] was perfect.”
Your key piece it is the first – the sweater that became known as the Poor Boy sweater , long sleeves but a cut more girded the body and also shorter than usual at the time. What now seems like a simple sweater tights, the pink stripes, red, pale pink and black, with visible points and a high collar but loose, it became a hit on the cover of Elle . The French edition of the magazine joined two fuel elements: Françoise Hardy to 19 years and a new style. At the end of 1963, the sweater up stuck to the body of French pop star of the moment, Brigitte Bardot Sylvie Vartan. Audrey Hepburn was shopping in Paris in search of the famous sweater with ribbed light that would become a replicated piece, imitated and integrated in the global wardrobe.
The sweater knit of Rykiel stripes was important because, in addition to fit the spirit of the decade it was fervently used, “at the time the stitches were always a thick point that created heavy clothing,” contextualizava Marie Ricki, fashion school director Studio Berçot , the Guardian . They fell rigidly, were little versatile. The reinvention of Sonia Rykiel was make them more feminine. He sold them in boutique Laura and saw his creation to blend with what they were doing Courrèges or Mary Quant, with what is sold on the Rive Gauche but also in King’s Road in London. With that wearing more comfortable, women – and men – sixties . This Thursday, French President Francois Hollande remembered as a “pioneer” that “gave women freedom of movement.”
Six years in 1968, Sonia founded the homonymous home and continue to draw until 2009, when he received the French Legion of honor, he saw be inaugurated “his” monographic exhibition at the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris and attended the tribute that 30 fashion designers from all backgrounds have made his work to celebrate the 40th anniversary of maison Rykiel.
“This work dropped me on. I did not want to do it. It was an accident. In the first ten years, I would say, ‘Tomorrow I’ll stop.’ First I made a dress because she was pregnant and wanted to be the most beautiful pregnant. Then I made a sweater because I wanted a sweater that was not like all the others. I became the queen of knitted sweaters without even knowing how to make a “shot in an interview with Interview in 2009, he recalled having to explain to your co-religionist and admirer Jean Paul Gaultier:” You know ? I do not know knitting “” And he said, ‘Do not you know?’ it’s true. I do not know knitting. “This year, retired officially.
He was diagnosed Parkinson’s disease logo in the 1990s, but not limited to the ability to work unless many more years later, when would the witness to her daughter, which in 2007 was already president of the brand. The disease caused the complications that caused his death, said early on Thursday Nathalie Rykiel told AFP news agency, confirming that Sonia died by 5 am at his home in Paris.
He was dressed in black, almost always, in contrast with the colorful explosion of the 1960s that fueled the foundation of your brand and its stylish approach. In March 2004 was in ModaLisboa the organization’s invitation to parade one of their collections. “It was a symbolic invitation to someone who was already part of the history of fashion,” recalls Eduarda Abbondanza, president of the Association ModaLisboa. With it came Nathalie Rykiel and many “sweaters with hearts,” said Publico, works a “pioneer who was still active” and came to fulfill a role in the Lisbon platform, the “mix who began a series of processes in passerelle “world with national creators.
Several pieces Sonia Rykiel also part of the Francisco Capelo collection of the Museum of Design and Fashion (Change) in Lisbon. He wrote several books, ventured in decoration, and had an actress side – by the way, is the inspiration for the protagonist (and participant name own) Prêt-à-Porter Robert Altman on the fashion sector.
“I think I’m a good thief – which means that all I hear, all I see become part of what I do,” said the same Interview , the daughter Nathalie next door at the end of 2009
in addition to the creative stroke, Sonia Rykiel was distinguished by another element: its position in the market. The fashion business, the industry is dominated by large groups, fast fashion or luxury, investment funds or companies in various areas of activity, holding brands like Dior, John Galliano or Gucci. Were few, like Giorgio Armani or Sonia Rykiel, the designer and owners creators of your brand, your home, your name. In 2012, Rykiel eventually combine a fund to fund.
Its headquarters remains on the Boulevard Saint-Germain, in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the Rive Gauche with that always identified, but Sonia did not like to be limited to this, this “intellectual idea” the left bank of the Seine; daughter, however, assumes: “The Rykiel embodies the French chic. Not only this, is the chic of Paris, is the chic Rive Gauche. And to be more precise, it is about Saint-Germain des Prés. “
In January 2014, Julie Libran, who left the position of director of the lines women in Louis Vuitton, took over the creative director role the house Sonia Rykiel and remained faithful to the signature of the founder. Nathalie Rykiel continues to be consultant of the brand in its various business areas, accessories to perfumes.
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